As received, one guide roller limit pin would not insert, had to ream its hole. The 45 adapter would not screw in place, had to chase the threads with a tap to remove burrs. The sear index pin, the one the sear slides onto, was slightly bent. And finally the "0" index mark on the 45 adapter was misaligned, off by 3/32".



The slightly bent sear index pin is not that big a deal, as the pin is intended to simply locate the sear - the sear then is aligned by either using the suggested (but not included) modified machinist parallel clamp, or by using a longer screw to mount the adapter and then threading on a knob to hold the sear in place (I'll include an image). Note that while this knob makes it much more convenient to clamp and remove sear to flip it and stone relief angle (if desired), it cannot be used to hold the hammer as the longer fixture screw will be in the way, so for stoning the hammer hooks to length, either replace with original screw or use plan B. In any case, this jig isn't intended to do hammer hook faces.



That misaligned index mark meant that the roller part of the fixture, instead of the suggested starting height of 20 clicks up, had to be all the way down to get a neutral primary sear angle. Think of the adapter index mark as a very course adjustment and the roller height as a fine adjustment - so the index mark *has* to be right. Yes, I understand that all of this is jibberish unless you have the fixture in front of you, but then hopefully it will make sense.



The good news, the basic fixture is well machined and the angles that need to be 90 degrees all are that. Before mounting your adapter, Take a swipe or two with some fine sandpaper on a flat surface (surface plate etc) to remove any burrs that would prevent the adapter from mounting flush. Then use a machinist square on top of a stone or straight edge, with the ruler edge bisecting the sear index pin and the the sear tip at the apex of the square, and you can check the fixture adjustments for a starting neutral primary cut.



Pic 2 shows a jig I made to check sear angle (instead of using machinist square) - either works fine and is only needed to check initial set up.



Once set up, the jig is solid and repeatable.

Worked as designed nice time saver too.

Makes getting sharp, clean trigger pulls a cinch! Clean angles, no rounded/unsafe edges. Dropped pull on Smith & Wesson 60 to comfortable and safe pull weight.

grate tool but when you get it before you stick a sear in and start stoning mic all components specially the pegs on the adapter making sure there squire with one anther the adapter and the adapter squire with the body when tighten or wind up buying new sears anyway

I've used this fixture for about 10 years now on about 50 trigger jobs different make handguns. It has always performed well with predictable and repeatable results on every model gun that the various adapters for which are manufactured. The set-up isn't cheap, but the old adage that "you get what you pay for" fits this to a tee, which makes this a GREAT value! Extremely well made!

While this is not cheap, it is a very good value. This product allowed me, a novice gunsmith, to achieve perfect repeatable results for my 1911, easily on the first try. There are several different heads available for different types of firearms, so you don't need to buy several tools to work on several different types of guns. The customer service from the manufacturer is also top notch, as is not heard of these days. I ruined a pin on the head through my lack of experience and called the maker, explained that I ruined a pin and asked if I could buy just a replacement pin. They said they were out of stock of the drill bit stock they make them out of at the time and would send me one as soon as they came in. less than two weeks later I received, free of charge and sent over night, a complete replacement head. I can't say enough about the tool or the company, Power Custom!!!

I've used the Ron Power stoning fixture for 1911's for about 18 years now and would recommend this item highly. It sets up in a few minutes and can be reset with ease. It's a fool proof way of getting a proper and accurate angle cut on hammer hooks, triggers and sears.

I loaned mine out a while back and the fellow I loaned it to has since moved (along with my fixture). So, here I am back at Brownell's for a new one.

As well as the fixture, Brownell's is also top notch do deal with every time. Buying from Brownell's is the safest, and best place when it comes to anything firearm related.

Bud M. Ontario, Canada

If you're going to do a trigger job on an XD/XDM, this is the best way to do it. I've done three with it so far and it works great.

Comes with some very well written instructions. I took the fixture and adapter out of the box and was doing trigger jobs within five minutes. I use Ceramic Stones instead of india stones (brownell has a good set) and a lightened spring set. I can get it down to 2lbs. easily.

I have the other stoning fixtures that are out there, but this one is the best overall for repeatable and accurate trigger jobs on a 1911 Colt type weapon. The better the stones you use, the better the job, but the fixture is well made and dead on accurate. I use steel blue or a permanent marker to mate hammer hook and sear faces for the final fit, and adjust as needed. I also use a ruby stone for final finish to mirror quality .. this unit is the best I have ever seen.

This jig does it all and if it does not get the Series II and then you have no excuse. Adapters are very affordable and pay for themselves the first job and the just do not wear out. Completely adjustable but will hold absolute zero when removing the hammer or sear and then returning it. Great instructions included.

A must have for any gunsmith or serious hobby smith.

I was a machinist as a young man and actually worked for a gun manufacturer. I just did a trigger job with the series 1 adapter and the sear came out like a mirror with flat, square edges. I am so impressed that I ordered the series 2 as well.

Thanks for doing such a great job,

Stephen Clark